What does it mean to have a sustainable wardrobe?
Sustainability has become an increasingly popular term in recent years. No longer only the concern of environmental groups, the concept of a sustainable world is central to both our, and our planet’s survival. But what does sustainability actually mean, and what does it have to do with your wardrobe?
What is sustainability?
Sustainability is a complex concept, and there isn’t one universally agreed upon definition. But, the most often quoted understanding comes from the UN World Commission on Environment and Development: “sustainable development is development that meets the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs.” [1]
In other words, fulfilling current society’s physiological and sociological needs (like food, drink, clean air, shelter, warmth, clothing, health, safety, trust, dignity and independence[2]) within planetary boundaries, paying particular attention to our use and waste of natural resources.
Not only that, but sustainability also means doing right by the entire current and future populations of this planet by not exploiting those less fortunate or powerless, whether human or animal.
Fashion’s unsustainable practices
Traditionally the fashion industry has been well known for its exploitation of both the environment, as well as the people involved in textile and garment production.
From an environmental perspective, fashion is responsible for around 2% of global greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions [3], contributing significantly to the climate crisis. Around 63% of our clothes are made from synthetic fibres, such as polyester, acrylic and nylon, which are all plastics, made from fossil fuels [4]. The production of textiles also uses and pollutes large sources of freshwater annually, leading to the common saying that you can predict next season’s fashion from the colour of the rivers in China.
Ever since the manufacturing of clothing and textiles shifted from developed countries to developing ones like China, Bangladesh, India and Taiwan, there have been concerns around the industry’s contribution to poverty. The fashion industry is notorious for low pay, poor working conditions and for supporting practices like forced labour and child labour. The collapse of Rana Plaza in Bangladesh in 2013 which killed 1,100 and injured 2,500 was a huge wake up call for many large fashion brands and consumers who had not previously given much thought to the conditions of the factories where their clothes were made.
And finally our own attitude towards the true value and expendability of our clothes has played a massive part in why the fashion industry is so unsustainable. Owning more clothes than we can possibly wear, only to throw them away — when (inevitably) our $10 t-shirt has lost its stretch — teaches us not to value or care for our belongings.
Is there a better way?
The great news is that more awareness of these issues, and support for climate action has resulted in some real change in the fashion industry. Big brands are starting to look closer at their supply chains, and many small brands, like Alyssa Lloyd, are passionate about doing business differently. Here are some of the ways fashion is changing for the better:
Sustainable fabrics are becoming more widely available. Textiles that use fewer natural resources and do not pollute our precious water sources will be important to the industry and our wardrobes moving forward. Fabrics like tencel, cupro and linen are great ones to look out for.
Ethical manufacturing practices are important for the industry moving forward. Support for locally made products is helping to bring important skills, like sewing, back to developed countries where the pay and conditions are good. For those who can’t manufacture locally, support for worker’s rights and a living wage can help break the cycle of poverty.
Changes in consumer’s attitudes towards their belongings is helping to halt the popularity of fast fashion. Valuing the clothes we have, caring for them and investing in items that will last is the best way to have a truly sustainable wardrobe.
As Céline Semaan, founder of Slow Factory and The Library: Study Hall, says: “sustainability is a spectrum, a movement and a culture. Sustainability is a way of living and a way of doing business, rooted in deep and continuous learning. To us, sustainability is not about being perfect but about making progress towards systemic change.”
Sources
UCLA. What is sustainability? 2019; Available at: www.sustain.ucla.edu/about-us/what-is-sustainability/
Maslow A.H. A theory of human motivation. Psychological Review. 1943; 50(4), 370-396.
Ellen MacArthur Foundation. A new textiles economy: redesigning fashion’s future. 2017. Available from: www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/publications/a-new-textiles-economy-redesigning-fashions-future
Lenzing. The Global Fiber Market [Internet]. 2017 [cited July 2019]. Available from: www.lenzing.com/investors/facts-and-figures/factsheet/